Didn’t sleep great, didn’t care. Was up most of the second half of the night with AC but of course comfortably fell asleep an hour before it was time to get up. I was a bit scattered getting up and going. I couldn’t believe it was here. In retrospect, I wish I would have lay in bed for my usual 10 minutes to pray, be present and set my intentions for the day. But I was too charged. Luckily, I would have 9 plus miles ahead to get centered.
Walking into Bright Angel lodge was like a whirlwind. Everyone was there buzzing around with excitement. All I wanted was one last good cup of coffee before we set out but as soon as Carol brought me one, you could feel the collective pressure to leave.
We all gathered at the fireplace and took some pictures. We said goodbye to family, friends and staff who had gathered to send us off. We also met Jeff, our assigned ranger that the canyon had “made” us take since we were filming a documentary. We were resentful about the fees for what we believed to be unnecessary direction. However, he would later prove to be very valuable and by the end be considered a dear friend.
Hitting that trail with the sunrise fresh on the rocks was awesome….just awesome. I knew this would be our backyard for the next few days. The first day’s agenda was to hike all the way down which was 9.9 miles on Bright Angel Trail. Everyone always underestimates the down and the toll the descent takes on your body. I knew it would be hard but we were all so full of adrenaline and joy. Our plan was to stop in Indian Gardens, rest up, get water and put down some calories.
Somewhere near the mile and a half house, Anthony had to pee. Jeff, the ranger began his “leave no trace” speech just as he saw me pull out a portable urinal. Yes, we had pretty much thought of everything. From here on out, whenever AC would have to go, he would say “wall of pee please” and all the men would stand in a line with their backs to him blocking anyone’s view. It was really endearing and quickly turned into some male bonding time for all involved.
At the three mile house, Anthony insisted on going out to the lookout (more stairs). Our friend Todd Pendleton, gladly obliged. Once we were up there, we stopped so Todd could give Anthony a very special present. Todd, who works for Scottsdale Fire Department, had summited Everest almost one year ago. With him he had some Buddhist prayer flags that had been blessed by Llama Geshe in his 500 year old monastery as Todd began his trek to Everest base camp. He told AC the story of how he carried them all the way to the top of the world and held them up on the top of Everest. They were his last set and he wanted Anthony to have them. We were all speechless as he tied them to his chair. I later found out Todd had the flu and carried Anthony anyway. He would turn around at Indian Gardens after getting us halfway there only to recover in a hotel room and meet us as soon as he could. What a privilege it is to know these folks.
As we approached Indian gardens, we could hear the cheering. Hikers who had heard about AC in the canyon had lined up on the trail to clap and welcome us to the halfway point. We had planned to stay there and get refreshed but suddenly as we all started pulling our shoes off to put our feet in the cold stream, Jeff informed everyone that the mules were coming and we would either have to press on or wait an hour until they passed. Tim and Tina, our coaches, encouraged us to keep going to continue to try to beat the heat. Reluctantly, we got ourselves together and motored on. I felt bad as the Kath family had come up to hike with us to the halfway point and since they were ahead had taken off to the point to check out the views. We saw them as we crossed the switchbacks and yelled to one another across the canyon.
When we finally found shady spot to let the mules pass, everyone was really beginning to feel it. Anthony was slurring his words a little so we checked his oxygen levels. He was good and we just hydrated him along with salt tabs and more calories. Coming around the corner into what's known as the corkscrew, took my breath away. It was unbelievably rich. No picture you will ever see does it justice.
As we approached Phantom Ranch, Anthony reminded everyone that the whole reason this started was because he really just wanted to put his feet in the Colorado River. Even though it added a couple miles onto the already almost ten mile day, no one hesitated. We all waited for everyone so we could all cross the suspension bridge together. And although Dee had to run due to her fear of heights and vertigo, Tina, of course, ran behind her the whole way coaching from behind. I knew during this trip that each one of us would be called upon at one point or another to face our own unique challenges. We all cheered and yelled as the guys stepped aside so Oliver could pull his brother across the bridge in a ceremonial fashion.
Soon after, we were at the river. Clothes, shoes and socks went flying and we were all in the ice cold water in no time. We carried Anthony to the edge so he could put his feet in and make a mote with a castle. Watching him during that moment was just pure bliss.
At camp, everyone started to get settled. They had the BEST lemonade waiting for us and Tony began to unpack so he could get the food going for the guys. As everyone got settled in their bunk or campsite, DeeDee and I had a very long day ahead of us unpacking the mules and getting organized. That was one of the hardest parts for me. I was so sore and tired. I felt like I was going to just lose it if I heard one more person say “where’s my……”. Crazy! Though exhausted and yearning to rest, I was still grateful to everyone that helped us make it down there….grateful enough to help everyone get settled for the next four hours. I must have walked 5 more miles that night handing out gear. But soon, I was able to recompose and find more energy after the most appreciated shower I think I had ever had. Everyone was relaxing around camp, playing Farkle, having beers and talking about the wonder of the canyon.
The boys were so excited to receive cards and letters from Grandpa Coach and Nana Kate in the “boatman’s mail” that is brought down by mule once a week. And I myself received a beautiful card from my Dad telling me how proud he was. Working for my dad's (AKA "Coach")recognition seemed to be a ghost I had chased most of my adult life. At that moment, as I sat with the letter in my hands, I knew the truth.... I had always had it, I just needed to get out of my own way and have enough clarity to see. That’s another moment I’ll never forget.
The firefighters had dinner over at the campsite with Tony and the family got to eat the Hiker’s Stew in the Cantina. Since Doug doesn’t eat red meat we planned on him eating over at the campsite, however we had no idea that was another mile away. Sorry Doug! That was a very long walk I’m sure! I think we all tried to be grateful and think of the other team members who hiked back out that day after getting us there safely. They did this in a selfless act in order to save more spaces at the bottom for additional crew. Looking at what everyone was doing, I think we all did a good job of sucking it up anytime we felt weary or overwhelmed. That was the beauty of our team.
That evening, as I crawled in my bed next to Anthony, I took in all the stillness and peace. Even though my feet throbbed and my legs twitched, I felt an amazing sense of accomplishment. I laid there in awe listening to the breathing of my beautiful, exhausted, satisfied, little boys thanking God. In moments like those, the limitations, struggles and disappointments in my life seem like half a world away...just a faint memory I can barely even recall.
No comments:
Post a Comment